When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.
The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners completely shocked.
“I’m totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.
In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.
The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.
Maya is a seasoned travel writer with a passion for uncovering exclusive destinations and sharing practical tips for luxury travelers.
